In Depth: Aeonium Winter Care Guide

Take time to explore this masterclass in winter care for Aeoniums, sharing invaluable tips from our extensive experience nurturing these unique plants over the years.

We know the importance of protection for these stunning plants during winter. This article covers a wide range of challenges we all face, such as extreme weather, taking cuttings, and protecting from frosty nights and days. Enjoy the read; we are sure there is some valuable information here to help you.

Aeonium 'Blood' in summer

Aeonium 'Blood' in winter

You can clearly see here that the 'Blood' is greener in the winter than in the summer. It is also more open and full leaved, showcasing that the Aeonium peak growth period is in the cooler period.

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Light and Temperature

Winter light is vital for Aeonium health and to keep them compact. Inadequate light can result in leggy growth, increasing vulnerability to pests and diseases.

Most Aeonium species grow in the sunny Canary Islands, where they have adapted to frost-free conditions. However, when cultivating them in colder regions like the UK, where light levels dip and temperatures plummet, extra care is needed. Providing shelter significantly enhances their winter survival. Ideal options include a greenhouse, porch, or conservatory to shield them from harsh weather. Full sun and temperatures between 6 and 12°C during winter are ideal.

If Aeoniums are kept in a conservatory above 15°C, they will crave more light, potentially resulting in leggier growth – unless you introduce grow lights to mimic extended daylight hours.

Light levels are crucial to keep your plants looking their best year-round, especially during winter. Even in cooler conditions, higher light levels result in healthier plants.

Pests and disease

As temperatures cool, pest activity may decline, but don't let your guard down – they’re still around. Aphids, mealy bugs, and sneaky caterpillars can hide among Aeonium leaves. Stay vigilant and remove any you find. Pests lurking under the soil, like vine weevils, pose a threat by feeding on Aeonium stems. Signs include a shrinking rosette, excessive leaf drop, a soft stem base, or even the plant toppling over. Early detection and removal are key to safeguarding your Aeoniums.

Aeoniums generally resist diseases, but maintaining good airflow is crucial to prevent fungal build-up.

Mealy bugs

These little white bugs are one of the most common of the succulent pests. To remove these, we simply suggest for you to physically remove them with tweezers or a fine brush. Rubbing alcohol may be used, but we have not found it to be super effective.

Caterpillar

These critters like to hide and eat away at the centre of the growth point. To stop this, we suggest inspecting your plants every so often. They like to make web nests within the leaves, so be on the lookout for those.

Botrytis

This is a common killer of succulents and is almost unavoidable in the UK. However, you can take preventative steps to minimize damage. To slow/ stop the spread of this fungus, we have found that increasing airflow and keeping the plants dry is the best option. Any residual water may cause this to develop on your plant. If you do notice it soon enough, take all of the effected area away. Also, take any dead leaves away to generally prevent pests harbouring around your plant.

Aphid, greenfly and blackfly

These small, soft bugs can be a real nuicanse to get rid of. One day you think you got rid of them all and the next it's like you never touched them! To get rid of them, we suggest a weekly or fortnightly douse of soapy water and a wipe with a fine brush.

Vine weevil grubs

These worm-like creatures are the baby versions of the summer pest. These are silent killers as they only attack the roots and stem until it is too late. To prevent vine weevils, we suggest you repot your plants in late summer-early autumn, giving the lower stem and roots an inspection. This clears any eggs and grubs before they can do real damage.

Protecting from cold temperatures

In the challenging UK winter, protecting Aeoniums from freezing is crucial. In a heated greenhouse or conservatory, aim to keep temperatures above 5°C. We recommend using our tried and tested top-quality fleece for unheated greenhouses, protecting down to -10°C. Keeping them drier encourages their natural defence mechanisms, allowing them to withstand slightly lower temperatures. However, even in greenhouses, hard frosts can pose a threat, so monitor forecasts and act when temperatures drop below 5°C.

Elevating plants onto benches or shelves in a greenhouse can offer extra protection, as temperatures are usually warmer above ground level. In colder regions, insulate the greenhouse with horticultural bubble wrap, and consider installing heaters to ward off extreme cold.

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Cuttings

Winter is still a viable time to take Aeonium cuttings. Choose older stems rather than fresh growth for better success. Use sharp, clean garden snips to cut a rosette with a 3-4 inch stem. Let the cutting callous over for 3-5 days to prevent infection. Plant it in a 50/50 mix of multipurpose compost and horticultural grit or perlite. If available, dip the cutting in rooting powder before planting. Keep it in a bright spot with good airflow, and within three weeks, it should root. Keep the soil slightly moist but not wet for best results.

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Growth rate

While Aeoniums often grow in winter, their optimal growth temperature is between 15-21°C. Lower temperatures slow their growth but won’t stop it. Spring and autumn are ideal for Aeonium growth. Some parts of the UK, such as inner cities and coastal regions, may offer better conditions for winter growth due to slightly higher temperatures.

Dealing with extreme weather

In extreme cold, protecting Aeoniums in a greenhouse can be challenging. Consider trimming rosettes or harvesting entire plants and bringing them indoors. After the cold spell, place the cuttings in empty pots without soil. They will sustain themselves, drawing on stored reserves. If another cold snap occurs, bring them back inside. By spring, roots are likely to have developed, and you can pot them up.

Wrong winter locations

Avoid placing Aeoniums in a garage, dark room, or enclosed shed during winter. These environments can lead to accelerated leaf drop, leggy stems, and untidy growth by spring – if they survive at all. They also invite pests, leading to further damage. Instead, keep them in bright, cool conditions with adequate airflow for the best results.

Watering and Feeding

When watering Aeoniums in winter, you must stay vigilant to the weather. Lower temperatures and diminished light levels mean slower plant growth, reducing the need for watering and feeding. Our practice involves watering every six weeks, occasionally supplementing with a seaweed solution feed if conditions allow (such as a mild winter). Unlike the growing season where we drench the soil, we limit the water they receive so the soil can dry out efficiently. Allowing the soil to dry between waterings can boost their health, excessive water during winter would mean the plant is also holding more moisture, which isn’t good when combined with freezing temperatures.

In the face of an imminent frost, it’s advisable to abstain from both watering and feeding altogether.

Outdoors if you can, indoors if necessary

  • Outdoors

    Growing Aeoniums outdoors in winter is more feasible in coastal regions and inner cities, where temperatures are milder. Growing Aeoniums in pots is advantageous because they can be moved away from cold weather. Microclimates within a garden, such as near windows, where escaping house heat provides warmth, are ideal. However, cold weather can still leave them vulnerable, so using protective structures or fleece during exceptionally cold nights can make the difference between survival and loss.

    Protect your plants from winter storms and hail, as these can damage leaves. Pot them in well-draining soil to prevent water damage during wetter months. Feeding is unnecessary for outdoor Aeoniums during winter.

  • Indoors

    Aeoniums can be grown indoors, where a bright, cool area with good airflow is crucial for their health. Ideally, a well ventilated glasshouse with parrafin heaters, grow lights and extra thick fleece on hand would be perfect, but of course not everyone has the means for this.

    If natural light is insufficient, grow lights can help. Even small inexpensive ones can be sufficient to get your plants through to the spring.

    Fans also encourage healthy plants by circulating air in between the leaves, reducing the chance of fungus.

    Water them lightly once dry. You may notice lower leaves dropping off and in this the plant is telling you something. If they are yellow and full of water, reduce watering or take the soil away as the plant is overwatered. If they are dry, this is natural and nothing to worry about.

Selecting the right plant for your environment

Selecting the right Aeonium for your environment is crucial, as their hardiness varies. Some, like Aeonium ‘Phoenix Flame’ or Aeonium ‘Emerald Flame’, exhibit remarkable resilience, enduring temperatures as low as -6 or -7 degrees. To assist in identifying plants suitable for your garden, explore our website’s hardy section for tailored recommendations.

Aeonium aureum

Fleece usage

Using fleece to protect your plants during winter is an excellent strategy and extremely cost-effective. It allows about 30% less light to penetrate; the lower light level doesn’t negatively impact the plants beneath.

Moreover, the fleece permits modest airflow, allowing the plants to stay healthy. If the fleece remains on for an extended period of time, it’s good to allow the plants to breathe on sunny winter days (but only if temperatures are above freezing).

This allows you to inspect the plants and address potential issues like pests or fungal diseases that may have developed underneath. Remember, preserving your plants from frost damage is paramount, making the use of fleece a valuable protective measure.

Identifying plant health after frost

In the unfortunate event of your plants enduring freezing temperatures, don’t lose hope – sometimes, all it takes is a bit of time and warmer weather to reveal their resilience in spring. However, if the frost has hit the plant, trimming off these damaged parts promptly is advisable. You can identify these parts by looking for black and mushy rosettes or stems. Like frostbite in animals and humans, this damage can spread, and early intervention minimises the further chances of damage and death. Light frosting may result in superficial damage, with dark stripes on the leaves indicating cell damage. Fortunately, this is something the plant can recover from, and by mid-spring, new growth will replace these affected leaves, especially after repotting and feeding.

Preparing for spring and flowering

Aeonium 'Red Edge'

Aeonium 'Red Edge'

Aeonium 'Red Edge'

£6.00 GBP
£6.00 GBP

As the Aeoniums prepare themselves for the following season, you may notice them beginning their flowering phase, if they do decide to flower. This process typically initiates with rosettes changing shape, often noticeable as early as November, readying a spectacular spring showcase. Gradually feed every 10 days with a well-balanced fertiliser as the warmer weather takes hold to encourage a more impressive flowering display. The long-lasting blossoms serve as a remarkable nectar source for bees, butterflies and other insects, especially outdoors in a sunny spot.

If you have any other questions on Aeonium winter care advice, please leave a comment below this post and we will be happy to answer this for you.

For alternate care advice, please find our other care guides in the Plant Care & Advice section.

We are adding new advice all of the time, so consider subscribing to our mailing list to make sure you do not miss out on any crucial information on how to care for your succulents. This can be done at the bottom of the page.

Questions and answers

  • Question

    I bought your fridge fleece last year and it was excellent. Interesting to see that you use it outdoors, I use mine in an unheated greenhouse, should I put it underneath as well as over the top ? Thankyou.

    Tracy Ray

  • Answer

    Thank you for your question.

    Putting it underneath may be a good idea, but I would recommend wrapping it over the top twice instead.

    Jack @ Surreal Succulents
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1 comment

What a fantastic article, full of helpful detailed info and help. Thank you.

Deborah Carter

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